Home |
Galleries
| Equipment
| Links
| Guestbook
| Articles
| Photo of the Month
Whether you're using a dedicated macro lens, close-up lenses, DSLR or compact, the following basic principles apply.
(1). Make eye contact.
An insect image will have far greater impact if taken at eye level. Most insect images taken from above typically lack impact (although they may be useful for ID purposes). Here are a couple of examples of eye-to-eye contact:
(1). Make eye contact.
An insect image will have far greater impact if taken at eye level. Most insect images taken from above typically lack impact (although they may be useful for ID purposes). Here are a couple of examples of eye-to-eye contact:
Firstly, a Large Red Damselfly (Canon 30D with MPE-65 lens, f14, 1/160 sec, ISO 100):
Secondly, a Nursery Web Spider (Canon 30D with MPE-65 lens, f10, 1/160 sec, ISO 100):
(2). Maximise depth of field.
When the subject matter is highly magnified, as it often is when photographing insects, the depth of field becomes extremely shallow. This is evident in the above images. In order to get as much of the insect as possible in focus it is therefore necessary to use as small an aperture as possible, ideally at least f8. If this still does not result in the entire insect being in focus then the usual trick is to focus on the insect's eye. However, one way of ensuring that the whole insect is in focus is to photograph the insect side-on, so that the insect is parallel to the front of the lens. This is particularly effective for butterflies with their wings closed and for long insects such as damselflies or dragonflies.
Secondly, a Nursery Web Spider (Canon 30D with MPE-65 lens, f10, 1/160 sec, ISO 100):
(2). Maximise depth of field.
When the subject matter is highly magnified, as it often is when photographing insects, the depth of field becomes extremely shallow. This is evident in the above images. In order to get as much of the insect as possible in focus it is therefore necessary to use as small an aperture as possible, ideally at least f8. If this still does not result in the entire insect being in focus then the usual trick is to focus on the insect's eye. However, one way of ensuring that the whole insect is in focus is to photograph the insect side-on, so that the insect is parallel to the front of the lens. This is particularly effective for butterflies with their wings closed and for long insects such as damselflies or dragonflies.
Green-Veined White (Canon 400D with Sigma 150mm lens, f10, 1/320 sec, ISO 400) :
Four-Spotted Chaser (Canon 400D with Sigma 150mm lens, f9, 1/200 sec, ISO 400):
(3) Don't be afraid to use flash
Some photographers prefer to use only natural light for macro work on the basis that the use of flash can make the image look artificial. Although this can be true if too much flash is used or it isn't diffused well, flash does have a number of benefits. Firstly, it allows a smaller aperture to be used and hence provides greater depth of field (and perhaps additionally allows the use of a faster shutter speed); secondly it picks out detail and hence can provide sharper-looking images; thirdly, given some insects' preference for lurking in the undergrowth, it provides photographic opportunities which simply wouldn't have existed if flash were not being used; finally, if lighting an image entirely by flash, the very short duration of the flash acts in the same way as a very fast shutter speed and can remove motion blur.
Given the proximity of the flashgun to the insect it is necessary to diffuse the flash to prevent the light from being too harsh. I use a Sto-fen Omni Bounce or a home-made diffuser made out of kitchen towel. If using the in-built flash, a tissue held on with a rubber band will act as an effective diffuser.
The examples below were lit entirely with flash.
Four-Spotted Chaser (Canon 400D with Sigma 150mm lens, f9, 1/200 sec, ISO 400):
(3) Don't be afraid to use flash
Some photographers prefer to use only natural light for macro work on the basis that the use of flash can make the image look artificial. Although this can be true if too much flash is used or it isn't diffused well, flash does have a number of benefits. Firstly, it allows a smaller aperture to be used and hence provides greater depth of field (and perhaps additionally allows the use of a faster shutter speed); secondly it picks out detail and hence can provide sharper-looking images; thirdly, given some insects' preference for lurking in the undergrowth, it provides photographic opportunities which simply wouldn't have existed if flash were not being used; finally, if lighting an image entirely by flash, the very short duration of the flash acts in the same way as a very fast shutter speed and can remove motion blur.
Given the proximity of the flashgun to the insect it is necessary to diffuse the flash to prevent the light from being too harsh. I use a Sto-fen Omni Bounce or a home-made diffuser made out of kitchen towel. If using the in-built flash, a tissue held on with a rubber band will act as an effective diffuser.
The examples below were lit entirely with flash.
A Common Wasp (Canon 30D with MPE-65 lens, f14, 1/160 sec, ISO 100):
Red-Horned Nomad Bee (Canon 30D with MPE-65 lens, f14, 1/160, ISO 100):
(4) In-Flight Shots
In-flight images of insects are perhaps the most difficult macro subject matter to capture. Certain insects make the task slightly easier by hovering from time-to-time. Hoverflies would be perhaps the most common insect to oblige in this manner, but still make very tricky subjects. Contrary to convention, I have had the most success using single-shot autofocus and trying to creep up on insects which are hovering around flowers. Occasionally, just occasionally, you will get one to hover long enough to get them in focus through your viewfinder and to squeeze the shutter button. For large insects such as dragonflies, it is possible to take in-flight shots with a telephoto lens rather than a macro lens. Migrant Hawkers are one dragonfly which hovers from time-to-time and hence offers more in-flight photographic opportunities than many other species of dragonfly. Again, a mixture of skill and patience is required to track such a fast moving, erratic insect through the viewfinder. This makes it all the more satisfying when you do manage to get a half decent in-flight shot.
(4) In-Flight Shots
In-flight images of insects are perhaps the most difficult macro subject matter to capture. Certain insects make the task slightly easier by hovering from time-to-time. Hoverflies would be perhaps the most common insect to oblige in this manner, but still make very tricky subjects. Contrary to convention, I have had the most success using single-shot autofocus and trying to creep up on insects which are hovering around flowers. Occasionally, just occasionally, you will get one to hover long enough to get them in focus through your viewfinder and to squeeze the shutter button. For large insects such as dragonflies, it is possible to take in-flight shots with a telephoto lens rather than a macro lens. Migrant Hawkers are one dragonfly which hovers from time-to-time and hence offers more in-flight photographic opportunities than many other species of dragonfly. Again, a mixture of skill and patience is required to track such a fast moving, erratic insect through the viewfinder. This makes it all the more satisfying when you do manage to get a half decent in-flight shot.
Hoverfly (Panasonic FZ30 with Raynox DCR150 close-up lens):
Migrant Hawker (Canon 30D with Sigma 150mm lens, f5, 1/1000 sec, ISO 250):
(5) Capture interesting behaviour or action
Images are often more interesting if they contain some natural behaviour or action rather rather than merely a static insect. Here are a couple of examples.
(5) Capture interesting behaviour or action
Images are often more interesting if they contain some natural behaviour or action rather rather than merely a static insect. Here are a couple of examples.
Here a Wolf spider is attacking a Large-Red Damselfly (Canon 400D with Sigma 150mm lens, f11, 1/125 sec, ISO 400):
Secondly, this is an Azure Damselfly emerging from its exuvia (Canon 400D with Sigma 150mm lens, f8, 1/100 sec, ISO 400):
(6) Try extreme macro
If your equipment allows, why not try extreme close-ups of a part of an insect, rather than trying to fit the whole insect into the frame? Obviously the greater the level of magnification the shallower the depth of field, so some care is needed to ensure that the chosen part of the insect is in focus. Here are a couple of examples;
If your equipment allows, why not try extreme close-ups of a part of an insect, rather than trying to fit the whole insect into the frame? Obviously the greater the level of magnification the shallower the depth of field, so some care is needed to ensure that the chosen part of the insect is in focus. Here are a couple of examples;
A Jumping Spider (Canon 30D and MPE-65 lens, f8, 1/160, ISO 100):
